Welcome September

Figs, eggplants, and purslane in my kitchen

Dear spaghetti-friends,

I’m writing this newsletter on a September afternoon, with the sea churning, the white-capped waves crashing against the cliffs and a northern wind blowing through the narrow streets of Polignano, sweeping away a few vine leaves and bougainvillea flowers. The wind slips under summer skirts, billowing them up, sends straw hats flying, tickles sun-kissed necks, and teases those who thought they’d spend the day at the beach.

But even though it feels like we’re moving quickly—too quickly—towards autumn, it’s still fig season. I’ve never eaten so many as I have this summer: for breakfast with yogurt, as a snack, and I’ve used them endlessly in my cooking classes. In one of these, we made a summer tiramisu, replacing mascarpone with yogurt and layering it with fresh figs: I never imagined how well coffee and figs could pair!

A few days ago, my love for this fruit reached its peak during a visit to the Giardini di Pomona (Pomona Gardens), whose name pays homage to the Roman goddess of orchards and gardens.

Pomona Gardens

This botanical conservatory—nestled in the heart of the Valle d'Itria, between Locorotondo, Cisternino, and Alberobello—is a treasure trove of biodiversity, founded in 1994. It’s home to a wide variety of Mediterranean fruit trees: pomegranates, pears, apples, citrus fruits, cherries, apricots, almonds, and quinces, in all shapes, sizes, and varieties.

But the Pomona Gardens also house one of the largest fig collections in Europe and the Mediterranean, with more than 450 species, many from Puglia and Italy, but also from places as far as Afghanistan, Albania, and Portugal.

Paolo Belloni — the founder of the conservatory — walks us through the fig fields, pointing out the green, purple, striped, round, and elongated figs, naming each one like a mother counting her chicks: "Maranciana", "Menuncedda", "Paccia", "Cossa", "Ricotta"... The names resonate in different Puglian dialects, forgotten place names, and Occitan languages, forming a rhythmic, cadenced, and lively chant.

The fig, as it turns out, is not really a fruit: it belongs to the same family as blackberries, blooming and ripening within, in a hidden chamber called the syconium. Its magic happens behind closed doors, away from prying eyes. Even its pollination is extraordinary, carried out by a tiny wasp that takes refuge inside the fig during the winter and emerges in the spring, pollinating the syconia in a remarkable cycle of life.

Figs and biodiversity

Every year, between the end of summer and the beginning of autumn, an ancient tradition is repeated in Puglia: the drying of figs. They are laid out on bamboo racks called "sciaje", whole or halved, and left to bake in the sun, concentrating their sugars and caramelizing gently. Once dried, they are stored for the winter in glass jars, layered with bay leaves, and used as snacks or in desserts.

Sometimes, dried figs are stuffed with toasted almonds (called "fichi maritati", or “married figs”), or they can be dipped in dark chocolate, becoming irresistible bonbons. They are also used to make "vincotto di fichi": the dried figs are cooked in water and reduced to a pulp, which is then strained to extract the juice. This juice is cooked again until it thickens into a delicious caramelized syrup. Vincotto is preserved and used to coat "cartellate", the traditional Puglian Christmas sweets.

Figs remind me of my people: rooted firmly to the ground, with our gaze always on the sea, open to new cultures, and able to transform ourselves without ever losing our essence.

I’ll end this newsletter with two recipes from last month’s cooking classes. The first is based on eggplant, inspired by a dish by

Giulia Scarpaleggia

(the original recipe is here). I had the pleasure of meeting her and guiding her and her family on a food tour of my beloved Bari.

Bari, me, Giulia

The second is a "sea and countryside salad" with cuttlefish, roasted peppers, and "portulaca" (purslane), a plant that grows spontaneously in our fields, with fleshy leaves and a slightly tangy flavor, reminiscent of cucumber. I sourced this one from one of my organic growers: just steps from the sea of Monopoli, near saline springs, these vegetables have a different, more mineral, fresh, and crisp taste.

Mediterranean-Style Gratinated Eggplants

Ingredients for 4:

• 2 small eggplants

• 3 San Marzano tomatoes

• 2 garlic cloves

• Fresh basil leaves

• Fresh lemon thyme leaves

• Extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper

Method:

1. Cut the eggplants in half lengthwise, then cut each half again, so you end up with 4 wedges per eggplant.

2. Blanch the eggplants in boiling water for a few minutes until softened: they should be tender enough to pierce with a fork but not overly soft.

3. Remove the eggplants from the water using a slotted spoon and let them cool for a few minutes.

4. In the meantime, cut the tomatoes into wedges.

5. Arrange the eggplants in a baking dish. Score the flesh with diagonal cuts, and insert small pieces of garlic into the slits. Season with the tomato wedges, a sprinkle of breadcrumbs, salt, pepper, and fresh thyme. Drizzle with a little olive oil and bake at 180°C (356°F) for a few minutes until the eggplants are golden.

6. Serve with fresh basil leaves. They are delicious even when served at room temperature.

Cuttlefish Salad with Roasted Peppers and Purslane

Ingredients for 4:

• 500 g cleaned cuttlefish (without intestines)

• 2 red bell peppers

• 1 medium red onion

• 3 garlic cloves

• 1 ½ tablespoons capers

• 60 g purslane

• Extra virgin olive oil, salt, pepper

• A splash of white vinegar

Method:

1. Boil the cuttlefish for about 5 minutes until they are cooked but still tender. Drain them and let them cool.

2. In the meantime, clean the bell peppers, remove the seeds, and cut them into strips. Sauté the peppers in a pan with 2 garlic cloves for about 8-10 minutes, until they become crispy and sweet. Remove the garlic.

3. Slice the cuttlefish into strips, then transfer them to a bowl along with the roasted peppers and one fresh grated garlic clove.

4. Slice the red onion into rings and add them to the bowl, along with the capers. Add plenty of olive oil, salt, pepper, and a splash of white vinegar. Cover the bowl and let it rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour.

5. Add the purslane leaves only at the end, then serve immediately.

Happy cooking, and we’ll meet again next month with the October newsletter.